查看完整版本: 香格里拉（二）：松赞林

香格里拉（二）：松赞林

一大早从后街客栈里出来，走到街对面的公交站旁，准备乘3路公交车去松赞林寺。香格里拉城县城只有4条公交线路，在安静的小城里乘坐1块钱的公交车去景点不失为有趣之举，从经济的角度出发至少是省了10倍的打的费用：）<br>#W#\*e'e,b
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<br>噶丹.松赞林寺并不大，也只属省级文物，但它是云南省最大的藏族佛教寺院，是康藏十三林大寺之一，为格鲁派寺院。<br>
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D.XQW?9I4WK.Gnq <br>在藏传佛教的寺庙中，我只去过青海的塔尔寺，塔尔寺明显比松赞林寺大了许多，但周边的风景却是松赞林寺好些。<br>
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<br>松赞林寺也名归化寺，噶丹.松赞林寺是它的藏名，为康熙皇帝所赐，而归化是雍正所赐。它建于1679年，以大寺和金瓦寺为中轴，依次为西苏、赏厦、八大康参和僧舍，其整体建筑是仿照布达拉宫依山而建，为典型的藏族土木碉楼式建筑。<br>
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<br>松赞林寺整个面积有八百多亩，寺庙僧人曾多达1700余人，僧舍共有300多间。1936年4月红**征经过中甸时，贺龙元帅曾给松赞林寺写了一幅“兴盛番族”的锦幛。<br>
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<br>松赞林寺庙内有非常精美的壁画，其中一幅壁画很有意思，画的是一个人的舌头在石磨下，这是藏族同胞生性耿直，有什么说什么，最憎恨那种背后说人闲话的小人。如果有人在背后议论别人的是非，舌头是要被拉到磨盘下磨碎的。<br>
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<br>古老沧桑的僧舍墙壁<br>jtA~ojc$f
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fdm?4x"n <br>宗喀巴大殿：宗喀巴来自青海塔尔寺，是哒赖和班禅的师傅，为藏传佛教的鼻祖。<br>
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Gb4ir-X l](h <br>松赞林寺的金顶虽不比塔尔寺那么宏大，但同样庄重肃穆、金碧辉煌。<br>o&^G'bsu
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<br>藏、汉、纳西和傈僳等多个民族共同生活在这片净土与乐园中。<br>
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<br>从寺庙出来，距中午时间还早，便决定到山下的沼泽牧场去走走，虽然是五月，但这里的冬天才过去，草还没长起来，沼泽处于半干状态，我在草场里四处游走，看牦牛食草，听山雀放啼，不时有体形较大的水鸟从沼泽的草丛中掠过，此时此刻，融入自然的感觉是多么美好！<br>:]F"{G]a&h
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vxFjo+S\ <br>从寺庙出来穿过克纳村子便到了沼泽牧场。<br>
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<br>顺着木廊进入沼泽深处，可以观察沼泽丛中的飞禽走兽。<br>)g\Q&d.C"Yk+j
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<br>在沼泽深处游荡徘徊，把思想停止在原野，把身心交给自然。<br>
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<br>在沼泽边沿的斜坡上，藏女禄茸格桑姐妹俩在田里忙着犁地，她俩的丈夫都去帮亲戚盖房子去了，农活则由家里的女丁完成。<br>
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<br>不觉到了中午吃饭时间，田里看到藏女禄茸格桑姐妹俩正要收工回家，我便跟着一路来到古龙村子里，禄茸格桑一家共八口人：两位老人，四个大人，二个小孩，村里和城里一样实行着计划生育，看到内地农村里左一个右一个地超生小孩，这里虽然偏癖，却让我感到意外。<br>Wr&K(X6\1u2o2}
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ql0{nc k`2p,? <br>村口处格桑的丈夫和其他男人们正在热火朝天地盖房，这里的藏房并不是用土基垒成，而是用土一点点地夯起，厚度比土基房宽多了，里面既结实又保暖。<br>
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*d4t6KY0[,xWy/f} <br>具有鲜明特色的藏式民居。<br>
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$h4X7`)T} Xy <br>有客自远方来，藏民非常热情好客，端上酥油茶和糌粑，配上佐料，围着灶台边熊熊的炉火，一边吃一边天南海天地聊天，心里很是温暖。<br>-}b\:V3Z
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T.Lb$l5C8P <br>禄茸卓玛奶奶在制作酥油茶,先把土茶倒入茶筒，加入酥油、盐和香料，用搅棒上下搅混成水乳交融状即可食用。<br>7q4A/QO^N5XM
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<br>藏家的烟排很简便，房子内顶其它都是平的，只有在灶台上空的屋顶开了一个很大的口子，以方便烟尘排出。<br>[b^"E
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<br>禄茸格桑正在做糌粑，糌粑是藏民的主要食品，它是将青稞晒干炒熟后磨成细面而成。村里的藏民一般是中午吃糌粑喝酥油茶，晚上吃米饭和菜。<br>
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0mh,mW(T%C2u <br>幸福的老人马爷爷（汉名，他的藏名我没听懂）和卓玛奶奶<br>M0p7|.qe4B/c
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:A;E!PU(F%@6Py <br>在卓玛家看云龙飞舞，观沧海变幻。<br>zt8C"Z]"D*H
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